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Tough as Nails, Traditional Plow construction on a smaller scale to perfectly fit subcompact and small compact tractors.Ted has tweaked and fined tune this plow, which has transformed it into the perfect choice for small tractor owners. Small compact and subcompact tractors have a different hitch that is lower than most tractors, so they need a smaller, more low profile plow. The main beam on the plow is 32.5" wide which is small enough for most compact and subcompact tractors to easily hook to. At 185 lbs, the Land Shark Compact Tractor Plow won't weigh down your tractor, even with the addition of the optional gauge wheel, for limiting depth, or colter disc for cutting pesky vegetation in front of the plow point. The gauge wheel for this plow is solid steel and has no rubber, so it should last a lifetime unlike cheap Chinese rubber wheels that rot. PERFECT fit for subcompact tractors like the Kubota BX and B Series, John Deere 1023E, 1025R, 2000 series, Mahindra Max, Massey Ferguson GC, Kioti CS and other tractors which need a low profile plow.
*The optional colter disc will not work if your stabilizers are inside the lift arms. Please call before ordering if you have any questions.
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Hi, I'm Ted with Everything Attachments. We're here today with our newly designed version two of what was always our compact plow. In the mid-'70s tractors, the Ford, the Yanmar came in, a lot of tractors they just simply got a lot smaller than they had been for many years and that's what kinda created the compact tractor. So in the mid-'70s, early '80s, Leinbach designed a plow, it looked a lot like this to start with, and a lot of what I've done to it to change it didn't matter. It was just all they needed at that point was a smaller plow that was lower, where the beam was lower to the ground because the tractors went from being a big tall tractor to a much shorter tractor. Everything else would still work, so they just lowered the beam, everything worked good for many years. And then they invented the sub-compact tractor, which has a very un-standard category one hitch. It is a category one hitch, it's called a limited hitch, and it creates a lot of problems to put a good plow and everything you need together.
Now to start with, a big sub-compact and a B Kubota both have a what's called a up or down lift. You've got your lever for your lift, you're either down, neutral, or up. There's no position. A position control lift, where you put it is where it goes. And so you can always go back to the same spot. So you can't really do that on an up or down lift, and it's a little bit hard to control especially on a underground implements. So if you've got a up or down lift of any...on any tractor and it's a small tractor, the first option I recommend on a plow is that gauge wheel. Now we went to a lot of trouble to get rid of the cheap gauge wheel that we used to buy that we used to buy which had a rubber donut on it. In a couple three years, it cracked and fell off, you had to replace it. So we just made it out of a solid steel pipe, cut our own spokes out on the laser, built everything outta steel. We built basically everything on this plow except for this blade, the pins, and the bolts. Everything else we built.
So what we did was the original plow had a narrow hitch and that helped it in some cases for smaller tractors, but a BX and a B, the small John Deeres, any tractor that has the stabilizers on the inside instead of the outside going to the rear wheels and there's simply not enough room to have a category one hitch and still go to the outside on a sub-compact tractor. So what we did was we widened this beam here quite a bit where we could slide the plow over. Because once you make your first furrow, then you're gonna put your tractor tires in it. And at that point, the plow can't be behind your tire because you're back in the ditch, and that's where the other plow ended up. And you couldn't... You were having to really offset your chains way over to one side, try to get the plow more towards the center of the tractor.
So what we've done is we've lengthened this bar, made it where you could push the plow all the way over to one side. That puts the coulter... And this is what cuts if you...especially for a smaller tractor to make it easy to pull turf is actually the hardest thing to go through, even usually worse than hard dirt. So if you've got turf or, you know, it's a new garden, you definitely want the coulter feature that's gonna slice the ground and the roots before it gets to the plow so it can just flip it over instead of having to tear all that at the same time with the horsepower of a really small tractor. And the gauge wheel just saves you on setting it on the height you wanna plow at, you drop your lift all the way down, you're good to go.
Now we put a clevis hitch on this instead of a pin so you wouldn't have to loosen up your stabilizers all the way, bring it to the outside of the pin then have to re-tighten everything. So this is set at a standard category one width. Also the top link if you notice, where the pins are for your draw bars, they're way back in there. The top link is way back out here, so the geometry of that has to be changed and this has to be shortened so the plow doesn't do this when you raise and lower it when you're in the ground. You want it to stay kinda flat so when you adjust it up or down it doesn't change the pitch a lot.
So we've made five or six of these just to get the geometry exactly right for you if you've got a sub-compact tractor. Whether it's a John Deere, Kubota, if it's a sub-compact or a small tractor, this is a plow you want. We offer it in yellow at Everything Attachments or orange on Land Shark Attachments. This is a standard old style Ford plow mold board that I've designed a little differently. We do buy that from Empire Plow, the rest of it we make: the shin, the mold board. And the mold board has a design that I put on it because where we are we have really bad red clay. And when it's got a little bit of moisture in it, it gets really sticky. So it has a cavity right here to let the air suck in and get behind that clay so it doesn't try to stick to the mold board and lets it roll on over. It makes it a lot easier. It shear bolt protected back here with a shear bolt.
And so after a lot of trouble and making a lot of these, we've also...we've raised the hitch pins a little bit. When we were using...when we were doing our last plow video, I noticed we were all the way down as far as the tractor lift would go and that's as far as it would go and sometimes when the front of the tractor would get dip down, the plow came up too far. It would actually lift the gauge wheel off the ground, so you don't want that. So I raised this so you wouldn't have to. This is adjustable and the other side has two holes, but this is really where you wanna keep it. So since I changed this so you wouldn't have to change your two lift links every time you wanted to plow and then change 'em back for your regular implements. So this plow is 100% designed to work on a small compact tractor, it's what we worked at for the last couple of months to just get right and perfect and make it easy. It's the first time we've had the coulter in the middle and got clearance for everything. If you need any help sizing the plow, getting the right options for your tractor, just give us a call or an email and we'll be happy to help you.